Evil Detonator Regulator Seat Seal

These are often damaged from misuse of the Detonator regulator, or simply deteriorated from age and exposure to moisture. When decreasing the pressure on the Detonator, it's important to dry fire a few times (or shoot a few balls over the chrono) as you do so. If you do not, you risk digging the piston into the regulator seat seal.

The originals are often glued in with some super glue. If you can remove the brass inner tube, soaking it in acetone is a very easy way of removing the old regulator seat seal without damaging the brass (don't forget to remove the lower 011 BUNA o-ring before soaking, labeled as "?" in the blow-up in the original manual, but should have been number 12). It will expand and push itself out in about a day. Alternatively, you could try removing the old seat seal by digging an o-ring pick into it and pulling it straight out. 

Here's the original manual if needed: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PU9iYJFfo0-Rk_m5hkBwoYS0vue_vC-h/view?usp=sharing

It's important to note that this manual shows the early version that did not have a set screw in the Bottom Cap (Item No. 6 in the blowup). Later version were equipped with these.

It may be of interest to some that the manual shows the earlier version of the piston, and since the piston and power tube are different numbers, they may have been originally designed as parts that could separate, but in all I have seen they are brazed and the power tube is carburized (or possibly nitrided). Later pistons are milled such that the center protrudes higher. This milling allows for easier installation of the retaining clip and more air volume on the low pressure side.

Regardless of any recommendations listed here, I am not liable for damages to your regulator for any reason.